Local knowledge – just can’t beat it.
And it’s what brought me and my brother-in-law Gordon out from Lucca’s ancient walls one rainy midweek evening and into the hills just outside the Tuscan town, to the vineyards of Fattoria al Dotto near Carignano.
It’s only about 5km from Lucca and a 25-30 euro taxi ride from Piazza Napoleone but far enough to appreciate the rich verdant fields and hills which fill the landscape on the way to this family-owned vineyard and farm, which also produces olive oil, corn and cannellini beans.
And what a find – all thanks to Scottish pals Irene and Neil who have now been resident in Lucca for four years and have visited al Dotto on several occasions.
I can see why. The view are stunning – and there is a friendly welcome from al Dotto owner Giacomo Bertuccelli and his team before being seated on a large terrace, handily covered by a canopy which keeps us safe from May’s unpredictable showery weather.
It’s an international gathering this evening with a large American family at one end, a Mexican group on one side, two Latvian girls a few places away and another Scots couple at our neighbouring table.
It’s a simple formulae but not one that scrimps. Six wines produced on the al Dotto lands and accompanied with breads, home-made olive oil, and a superb range of delicious food including salumi, formaggio, salads, crostini and ending with delicious percorino and local honey.
As a proud Scot I pretended to be miffed when I learned that it was Irish smoked salmon being served with mascarpone on the first platter – but there was a very reasonable explanation from Giacomo. His great grandparents and generations beyond are Irish, hailing from Dingle in County Kerry. And the Irish links – so to speak – remain strong with the fattoria’s Rosé named Rosapenna – after a luxury links golf resort in County Donegal.
The fattoria’s website describes the wines as being shaped by the proximity of the Serchio river and “the influence of the Scirocco winds coming from Livorno and the summer Mistral, form a particular micro climate which guarantees the grapes a good maturation to the advantage of the organoleptic characteristics of the wine.
“In choosing the vines we wanted to maintain the ancient family winemaking tradition guaranteeing the presence of S. Giovese, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo and white Tuscan Trebbiano, however combining them with other varietal groups such as Merlot, Petit Vierdot, Cabernet Souvignon for the reds and Semillon and Vermentino for the whites.”
We were in the hands of friendly and insightful sommelier Chelsea, originally from Californian wine country but now resident near Lucca, and she was adept at taking us through each wine and outlining the tasting notes – from the first white which happened to be my favourite (Redetto), followed by a Vermentino, the Rosé, and rounding off with three reds – Merlot di Toscana, Rubeo, and Carillus.
By the time we were on the home straight the rain had long stopped and low-level cloud had lifted to offer glorious views over the valley and hills surrounding Lucca.
And it was time to settle the bill – just 35 euros each – incredible value by anyone’s standards for a fantastic evening of food, wine and first class hospitality.
The tastings are very popular – no surprise – so you must book, but we managed to call ahead on the day and secure a place. Tastings take place every day from May to October from 4.30pm to 8pm but even in winter al Dotto hosts sessions in its air-conditioned tasting room on the first floor of the cellar.
Check the website for details and book online on info@fattoriaaldotto.it
or call Giacomo to arrange a visit on 0039 366 417 2704.
You won’t be disappointed. Gordon and me were as happy as pigs in shi – er Irish clover.