A tradition – a habit – call it what you will. But when I arrive in Lucca the first thing I like to do is head for this beauty – and stand and gawp.
After a 45 minute journey, the Pisa Airport bus pulls to a halt just inside the ancient city walls in Piazzale Verdi, and I drag my luminous green suitcase up the main drag toward Piazza Napoleone (the locals call it Piazza Grande).
Thinking on that, I can never make up my mind if the Lucchese are gawping at me because of the luminous green suitcase or at the sight of a peely-wally Scot rolling in to town.
On reaching the tree lined square I swing left and 50 yards or so along the street and there she is waiting, as always. The white limestone church of San Michele in Foro majestically takes command of the square, as it should, sitting on the site of the city’s former Roman Forum.
And I just stand for a few moments and reacquaint myself and breathe in, and despite this being the centre of this walled city, I soak in the subdued atmosphere as life dials down a few notches.
The early start, the flight from Edinburgh in new coronavirus conditions, masked up, distance keeping, not sure what to expect at the other end, is a small price to pay for being back in Tuscany’s best kept secret that is Lucca.
The Italians are masters at many things – wine, food, fashion, organised crime to name a few – but when it comes to cathedrals and churches they knock it out of the park.
A church at San Michele was first mentioned in 795 AD but for the most part today’s structure dates from the 12th century and sitting atop this Romanesque church, the statue of St Michael the Archangel is impressive from any angle. But as Lucca is known as The City of 100 Churches (there are only 60-odd), San Michele is not even il capo – that honour goes to the city’s Duomo, La Cattedrale di San Martino, located only a five minute walk away.
Still, San Michele is my favourite and nothing will change that. And now that the ritual, habit, tradition is fulfilled, I am happily ensconced here for the next month, working remotely and also looking forward to a bit of time off when family and friends arrive.